A 9:00 AM ferry leaves Mytilini, Lesvos every morning for the 90 minute crossing to Ayvalık, Turkey. Customs houses, duty free shops and passport controls line the wharves on each harbor. On Lesvos, tiny stone chapels can be found every 5 km along the twisty roadside, each interior illuminated by a simple oil lamp. Spanikopita, kayseri pastries are served up with thick rich Greek coffee for breakfast. In Ayvalık, the call to prayer is heard five times a day. A simit with honey, figs, string cheese, and a cup of çay starts you off on your day. In both regions, olives and olive oil will be included in every meal. In both the talk is all olives in late Fall. We were lucky to visit both.
In 1923, the Treaty of Lausanne authorized a mandatory population exchange. 1.5 million citizens of Turkey – Greek Orthodox farmers and fisherman were relocated to Greece and 356,000 Turkish citizens of Greece – mostly Muslim tobacco framers were sent to Turkey. Today, the lands share a profound devotion to these trees and a passion of olives and olive oil. Our trip allowed us to sample both.
To read more, open the Lesvos and Ayvalik Newsletter.
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